Tuesday, November 29, 2016

High and Mighty!

The drive across the northern most border between Argentina and Chile is not for the faint of heart nor the unprepared. Three hundred kilometers of high altitude driving on rough gravel roads have been converted to most unpleasant "washboard" that rattles the car and teeth hour after hour. We began to wonder when the car would fall apart. Fang developed new rattles never heard before which we worked hard to ignore. Much of the journey is at the 14,000 ft level with climbs to 12 - 13,000 between and then, finally in Chile, to just over 16,000 ft. That's 2,500 ft higher than Mt Rainer! The terrain is not the usual high snowy peaks and valleys that we crossed further south but long rolling hills that seem to never end with the next rise far off into the horizon. 

It was interesting for me as a pilot quite familiar with the U effect of high altitude on both man and machine, to observer our fellow travelers and their cars at altitude. At our last passage control on the Argentina side most had not yet been effected by the 13,000 ft heights.  But hypoxia is accumulative and soon it's symptoms would slowly take over. Vision is the first effect noticed and both Pam and I watched as the instruments in the car, especially the small altimeter became harder to see. That's when I started to sip some O's . I had a full can of oxygen that I inhaled through those little nose tubes our seniors wear,  usually attached to their little electric scooters. Almost instantly the world got brighter and clearer. By the time we reached the border we had been above 14,000ft with climbs and descents for over an hour. 


Finally we reached the border crossing. These places are a study in disorganization. Five windows requiring unknown documents and much stamping, tearing and Spanish. The  line was long but we were towards the front. This procedure took over an hour for us and for those behind, agony. 
While we waited I watched our stressed group and their reaction to altitude. I asked many how they felt. The men were mostly in denial, "I feel fine, just a head ache." ( typical symptom )
The women were more realistic, feeling goofy and sleepy.  I had my little blood oxygen/heart rate tester from our airplane with me and tested a few "fingers" including our own. Some of the women were in the low 80's %. Definitely hypoxic. One should be in the 90s. Fairly soon, almost everyone stuck  their finger out wanting to be tested. A clear example that "everyone" was feeling something. Mostly a high feeling. Yep...they had it.
Because Fang is a native we were taken out of the huge deadly slow customs line and waved through the border. Delighted to see that barrier rise!

On the road again, after asking many of the Bentley boys about their car performance, " She's running well". What would develop as we got higher and the climbs steeper? With many of the Bentelys departing ahead, I soon found out, Charlie and Lance Morris had developed a leaning system for Fang that I controlled from the dash that kept him running at power during the entire high portion of the drive. Sweet ! Both car and driver came prepared, with Pam running on sugar and enjoying the high.
The answer came soon when we shot past the Bentleys slowly chugging up hills at low speed looking like they were running on coal. The few that made mixture adjustments did much better. We ran so well that we reached the hotel not only first, but in time for a nap. Cars did not show up for over an hour and then trickled in through the evening, many limping badly. 

Attrition was at an all time high for day 16. Both the altitude and the rough roads took their toll. The parking lot was filled with broken cars, mostly suspensions and drive trains. Tires were murdered on the route and several cars had to be taken under tow. Fang survived well, at least from what we can tell, other than his vital siren shook itself apart but did not shed parts. I can hopfully bolt him back together this morning. Along with an air filter change and re-wiring of headlights that failed due to a dead dimmer switch used a million times a day, sending back salutes from almost every truck and more that half the oncoming  cars. Will wire those on low beam and carry on. Each day's adventure seems to be one up from the day before, and now only just passing the half way point, it's hard to imagine what's in store for the next two weeks. Especially when informed that the roads heading north will seldom be paved and to expect the conditions to get worse. Did they really say that ?! For sure we will only be able to plan for one day at a time. I might add that one day seems like a week. Hang on Fang.... Whew.






Another perfect score day
And amazing place to stay









2 comments:

Unknown said...

Pam & Chuck, Your team and Fang are freeking amazing! Love it! Go get 'em!
Cheers! Carl & Linda

Unknown said...

What an amazing adventure! Best of luck to You, Pam and Fang!

David